Platinum is often compared to white
gold, although the two metals are very different. Platinum
is a naturally white metal. White gold is, actually,
yellow gold which has been alloyed (mixed) with other
metals. White gold contains silver or nickel and very
little or no copper. Standard yellow gold has about an
even mix of silver, nickel and copper. White gold is
plated with rhodium in order to keep its platinum-like
luster. This plating tends to disappear with time and
wear, causing the gold's natural color to appear. How
long will it take? There is no simple answer. It depends
on the thickness of the plating and the precise conditions
under which it was applied.
Pure gold, 24k, is too soft for reasonable jewelry use. A pure gold
ring would bend and become dented very quickly. When we speak of 18k
and 14k gold, there are standards for the amount of pure gold used
for each. In the case of 18k the gold purity is 75 percent fine; with
14k gold the purity is 58.3 percent fine. The alloys are used strengthen
and provide the desired color gold for the jewelry.
Some persons can not wear gold jewelry. Skin discoloration is caused
by skin secretions or perspiration containing chlorides. When these
come in contact with the copper and silver alloys, they produce dark
colored salts; copper sulfate or silver chloride. Since 18k gold possesses
75 percent fineness, it is not affected as easily as lower karat gold.
Changing to white gold or platinum should eliminate this problem.
Platinum is the only precious metal used in fine jewelry that is 90%
to 95% pure, largely hypoallergenic and tarnish-resistant. Platinum
jewelry will be marked 900/950Pt, 900/950Plat. or Plat. The most used
metal representing the remaining ten percent or five percent of the
alloy is iridium.
Platinum is the most valued of the precious metals. Its value normally
exceeds that of gold. Its beautiful silver-white color will not tarnish.
It is unaffected by common household chemicals and, unlike gold does
not get damaged by chlorine, bleach, or detergents. It is tougher than
all precious jewelry metals, but, it still must be alloyed with stronger
metals to prevent it from bending. We use iridium because of its toughness
and durability.
It takes very special skills and tools to work in platinum. Furnaces
producing approximately 3250 degrees Fahrenheit are required. Whereas
, the melting point of gold is1550 degrees Fahrenheit. And, methods
differ from those employed in working with gold.
The cost of platinum jewelry is generally higher than gold because
of the rarity of the metal, its purity and the intricate process
of working with it. But, the beauty and enchantment it exudes from
jewelry, in addition to its properties, make it one of earth's finest
treasures.